Sunday, April 18, 2010

The story of the enormous Lapis brush and other tall tales.

Hit Caley today with Broken Beagle (who was adopting a state of extreme mummification on more than one digit) and the Monk of Crush a.k.a. Tim (he doesn't drink and he's done 7c+) and had a bloody blinding day. Warmed up and everything seemed to going rather well so off to the ultra classic Font6a Mr. Smooth - got to my highpoint (or not very highpoint) on the first attempt and then got it in the bag on the second go. As soon as my left foot stuck on the slopey hold I just went into auto pilot and hit the top grinning like a loon. The Monk of Crush (who had gone to pray to his gods for lots of success or to answer a call of nature at the moment of my beastliness) asked me if I had used the arĂȘte to which my reply was "Buggered if I know". Armed with a bit of beta from myself he then proceeded to flash it in some style.

From there I tried the Font6b on The Horn and having made some progress but not feeling that confident it was off to the Roof of The World area. Perhaps it was the rarefied atmosphere that little bit higher up the crag which did it but once there I dispatched Font6b first time and quickly followed that up with a two try success on another. In all honesty they felt a lot closer to Font6a (flash) and Font6a+ with a dodgy landing to me so in all honesty I don't know if I can claim to have finally done Font 6b yet. Would be made up if I have and doubly so if I finally did it with a flash attempt but there is a bit of a lingering doubt in my mind.

After that I chilled and did some spotting and then it was back to pROJECT mAYHEM to go for a well earned pint. This was where things started to go a bit wrong as I stuck the keys in the ignition to get the stereo going (maybe to show it off a bit) and after that I just slammed the back doors shut and said goodbye to Berie, Joy, associated kids and the dog. Having done that we then went to get into pROJECT mAYHEM only to find that it was locked very, very shut - fuck, fuck, fuck! I have no idea how it happened but we found ourselves by the Road of Death on the outside of a van with the keys in the ignition and me feeling like a prize pillock. Cue a call to the AA and 40 minutes of standing about feeling rather sheepish until a "Very, very nice man" got back into the van and let us go on our way.

Burbage North tomorrow if the weather holds good - what can possibly go wrong?

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