I have that fantastic ache you get after spending a day climbing: shoulders, fingers, forearms, the lot basically - they are all throbbing away gently to themselves after spending the day bouldering at Caley and generally having fun.
Got the Caley classic, Smear Arête sent second go - a really nice problem with a brutal pull on followed by a heart stopping move to get stood up and then it is pad, pad, pad (again with a lot of trepidation) to the top. A great problem and one that shows just how good bouldering on the grit can be. Did Chicken Heads but don't think I can claim the tick as I came in from the right and it just doesn't feel hard enough for the grade that way - my feeling is that it has to be done direct to get the full tick but for it to feel possible to mere mortals such as myself it needs to be a couple of degrees cooler. Also started working Forked Lightening Crack and had similar problems - the crimp for the right hand will feel much better when it is a bit cooler and though it didn't feel that bad yesterday it just didn't feel quite right. It is a hard move to get the left hand up and you need to trust the crimp fully, something I couldn't do as I was constantly aware of a slight layer of moisture between my hand and the hold regardless of how much brushing I did or chalk I used. For now it will just have to be added to the ever growing list of 6b nemeses that I have got on the go but it is a really nice problem - powerful and with a degree of technical nous required as well. Other than that we just ticked off a fair few easy problems before retiring for a couple of well deserved beers - a grand day out in all.
Got the Caley classic, Smear Arête sent second go - a really nice problem with a brutal pull on followed by a heart stopping move to get stood up and then it is pad, pad, pad (again with a lot of trepidation) to the top. A great problem and one that shows just how good bouldering on the grit can be. Did Chicken Heads but don't think I can claim the tick as I came in from the right and it just doesn't feel hard enough for the grade that way - my feeling is that it has to be done direct to get the full tick but for it to feel possible to mere mortals such as myself it needs to be a couple of degrees cooler. Also started working Forked Lightening Crack and had similar problems - the crimp for the right hand will feel much better when it is a bit cooler and though it didn't feel that bad yesterday it just didn't feel quite right. It is a hard move to get the left hand up and you need to trust the crimp fully, something I couldn't do as I was constantly aware of a slight layer of moisture between my hand and the hold regardless of how much brushing I did or chalk I used. For now it will just have to be added to the ever growing list of 6b nemeses that I have got on the go but it is a really nice problem - powerful and with a degree of technical nous required as well. Other than that we just ticked off a fair few easy problems before retiring for a couple of well deserved beers - a grand day out in all.
No comments:
Post a Comment