Thursday, September 10, 2009

Death by Midges

Sloper's sport climbing ambitions had been cruelly thwarted so it was up to me to take him off to Apparent North for some easy bouldering as some sort of consolation. We decided to warm up on the left hand side where it became obvious that it was not going to be much a pleasant day out in the sunshine - no breeze, greasy holds and lots of midges was the order of the day. We stuck this out for all of about three or four problems before seeking some respite further to the right and we ended up at yet another one of my many, many Peak nemeses "Crimpy Roof Problem". On the one time that I have knowingly tried this before I failed to get as far as the lip of the roof but my recent run of discovering some sort of working sequence seems to be continuing and I now have a method of getting both hands on the lip courtesy of a toe\heel lock. Sure there is still some footwork stuff to do to get the next break but I feel that another very small breakthrough has been made. Awesome!

Anyway back to work tomorrow and then it is off to Wales for three days with Fiend (soon to be McFiend proper) for some trad and boulder action which I am rather excited about to say the least.

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