Rambling on about climbing stuff, cooking stuff, van stuff, other stuff and occasionally just stuff.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Italy Days 1-4
Italy eventually...
Monday, May 25, 2009
Caley
Considering that it was turning out to be the hottest day of the year so far conditions were pretty good in the woods but a quick trip to look at Chickenheads proved that anything that had been in the sun was not going down without a fight. For me it was more of a fight than I was prepared to put up taking into consideration I have got a flight booked to Italy for tomorrow morning.
Nice to go to a new crag though and as an added bonus it is only eight or ten miles from my mates house - I think that the autumn could be rather productive for the Yorkshire gritstone...
Friday, May 22, 2009
pROJECT mAYHEM II
Method 1. The sport climbing (redpoint) method:
- Plan everything out meticulously leaving nothing to chance.
- Buy the materials to implement the plan.
- Execute successfully with a minimum of fuss.
Method 2. The trad climbing (onsight) method:
- Sketch out a quick plan.
- Buy some materials.
- Faff about.
- Revise the plan.
- Buy some more materials.
- Faff some more.
- Revise the plan some more.
- Execute with a lot of fuss and realise that you still have 90% of the materials left.
I chose the trad method - the end result was the same - I ended up with a van with a floor fitted as intended. However I don't think it would have been half as interesting, or enjoyable, had I chosen the sport method just because there is something so satisfying about solving things on the fly. Having said that there one thing I would do differently next time - make sure I have enough money left to buy a beer when it is all over as a day doing trad without a beer at the end of it is just ever so slightly wrong.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
pROJECT mAYHEM
"You never know I might even have half a clue what I am doing come the end of the project!!"
These proved to be prophetic words - after what was at times the hardest four days of my life I finally have the floor down....
For now I will just post some pics and random comments up but I will go into a bit more detail on what has already been a fucking huge learning curve later.
Start off with an empty van like this:
Add in a frame so that the insulation has somewhere to sit.
I had already made up my mind to avoid drilling into the floor pan as it was going to be a right royal pain in the arse crawling under the van to seal all the screw holes that would result if I did. Instead I devised a cunning plan to tie the frame into the haulage loops (or whatever the proper name for them is). To be honest this really worked out well - short of a nuclear explosion there is no way that the frame will ever move.
Get the first board fitted - this was on the third day!! That's correct - two days to create and fit the frame and put in the insulation though to be fair I was somewhat hungover on the second day... Finally after four days and a lot of cursing and the like finish off boarding out the floor.
I should point out that somewhere between my last blog and the start of the boarding out process I had decided that this project was going to be called "Project Mayhem". There was no real reason for this other than I liked the name (and besides it pays homage to the truly excellent Fight Club). Still I suppose that if you are going to call it something like that then you really can't complain too much when it all goes a bit tonto... 8-)
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Crooked Rain Crooked Rain
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Necessary lobotomy?
As you can probably guess it has not been the busiest day at work I have ever had...
Monday, May 4, 2009
If You Were A McDonalds Your Lips Would Be An Orange Soda, But Your Dick Would Be A Shrivelled-Up Fry
Life has been rather interesting over the last few weeks - it all started when my housemates finally decided that they had got a plan for the next two years and were moving to Leeds. To be honest this was both bad news and good - I am one of those people who don't deal well with shit such as having to move house but after having spent a predominantly great 18 months or so with JPOT the joys of living with a couple, their 4 year old daughter and the Albanian Rat Hound were starting to wear a little thin so the need to find a new abode was not as bad as it first seemed. After a few fruitless viewings of some quite frankly terrible places, I am now residing in a two bedroom flat just round the corner from where I was living before.
Next up - the first tick on the 2009 list has been attained - I sold my faithful and much loved Golf and I now have a van after what seems like an awful lot of talking about it but not much in the way of action! The only slight problem with buying a van is that once I get the cosmetic things out of the way (removing the remainder of the signwriting and getting the near side sill touched up) I have to fit it out which is just as daunting as when I walked out of the bank with a large bundle of £20notes to pay for it in the first place! While I am not planning a full on camper conversion the list is still proving to be rather daunting. At the moment it runs something like this:
- Fit leisure batteries and charging system.
- Insulate floor, sides, tailgate and roof.
- Fit interior lights and other miscelleneous power sockets.
- Build in storage space with a sleeping platform.
- Last but not least put in a decent sound system.
Once that little lot has been sorted then potential additions to the wish list include:
- Lowering it by around 30mm, getting it on some nice 17" alloys.
- Fitting some sort of heating system.
- Adding reversing sensors (due to be possessed of great moments of doubt when it comes to parking at the minute)!!
- Tweaking the central locking so that it only opens the front doors when it is unlocked on the first press of the key fob thing.
To say the least just getting the main things on the list done is going to involve a very steep learning curve and while there is a wealth of information available on the web a lot of the time it's sorting out just what is relevant to your own personal project and then putting it into practice. On the plus side I get to play with electrics, big fuck off saws, drills and the like so with a bit of PMA this is another win win situation and also loads of content for the blog!
With all this going on in my life it should come as no surprise to learn that I haven't been getting out climbing much but equally surprising what little I have done seems to be going quite well and I feel that I am close (read as I now think it is very possible) to attaining a new baseline in my bouldering and getting Font6b ticked. As my one constant reader knows all too well I have been in the ballpark for getting the tick for a while with Murky Rib at Brimham but a lack of composure at the top results in the send getting stolen from me. Anyway a while back I spent a brilliant session with Duncan Disorderly, Lord Loggington and a few select others at Curbar - started off doing a few things on Trackside and got some much needed beta on Strawberries but it felt miles away so we went to have a look at The Ultimate Gritstone Experience.
Now if ever there was a project to make me all rad and syked this is it - TUGE is one big, gently overhanging fridge hugger of a boulder that requires a degree of shoulder power to get it in the satch. It also has some decent footholds on it so in other words it's perfectly suited to my "talents" and while I am only trying it from a stander at the minute (lowering the grade from 6c to 6b) it is still an awesome bloc. I actually had my hand over the top at one point but a duff sequence resulted in too much cutting loose which led inevitably to thin skin and no tick. To be honest though just being out with a great team with great syke made it a damn good day regardless!
A few days later I spent an equally pleasant day out with Sloper (strange but true) at Curbar, and even now, weeks after the event, I still can't believe that I haven't actually ticked 6b. I made massive progress on Strawberries to the point where I had done the "hard" move and my hand was on the jug. Now it was at this point where I tried to put what I had learnt with my repeated failures on Murky Rib into practice - I had the jug and it felt good so I relaxed... and promptly fell off which caused much angst complete with wailing, gnashing of teeth and redistribution of woodchips! I tried a couple more times but I had beasted myself making the progress that I had so the decision was made to sack it off for the time being and off we went off to visit TUGE again.
As I have already mentioned my sequence for TUGE is less than perfect but I managed to iron out the worst of the cutting loose issues and found a way to make the moves up the right hand arete slightly less strenuous but even so it was pretty obvious that there no chance of the tick that day. Still I now have two Font 6b's in the same area that I know I have more than a fighting chance of doing and in addition I have got the hard moves for Ben's Wall pretty sorted - just the high ball top section to get around now - eeek!!
For now though it is coming to the end of bouldering season (for the grit at least) so it is time to think about a bit of slimestone bouldering, dusting off the trad rack ready to get scared on a bit of string again and hopefully get a bit of fitness in preparation for eight days on bolts in Italy at the end of the month.
Finally for anyone who actually cares the title is a song track off One Speed Bike's excellent album Someone Told Me Life Gets Easier In Your 50’s.