I like to think that everyone has a nemesis problem or two that they just can not do or have done and can not get close to doing again - it makes me feel that little bit better about my own particular nemeses.
I have done Wafery Flake at Owler Tor (Font 6a+ at a guess) in the dim and distant past but since then it has repelled me repeatedly and while I really should console myself with the fact that I did it once and therefore have no reason to do so again it just doesn't work. Sheer bloodymindedness means that I keep going back and trying it again and again and again.
So far this year I have spent two sessions on it - the first was with Northern Dave and Brokeback Beagle where both just displayed how tall they were by reaching past the "rubbish" sloper and to the good break above - bastards! I had a few goes but because the problem sits in the sun (or because it is my nemesis and is therefore fucking with my head) the "rubbish" sloper feels just that - rubbish. Hit it and then grease off - repeat till everyone else gets bored and drags me off to try Conan the Librarian instead.
Went back again on Saturday with the plan being to warm up at Owler Tor and then head off down to Secret Garden to try First Bulge - a Font 6b that I was close to sending in a session the previous time but failed on due to a tweaky bicep and some rather interesting wrist separation issues. Somewhat predictably the plan went out of the window and a siege of Wafery Flake ensued instead as the conditions are feeling better and (so the theory goes at least) the problem is there for the sending. Conditions were better it has to be said - the sloper was only mildly rubbish and I was feeling pretty good on it but still couldn't get past the move off the sloper ending up inches then millimetres then microns short of the sinker pocket. Another day without the send and therefore another trip back to try it yet again. Next time I will pack the Whites - maybe a bit of mid-sole stiffness will make the difference or maybe it won't but it can't hurt.
I have done Wafery Flake at Owler Tor (Font 6a+ at a guess) in the dim and distant past but since then it has repelled me repeatedly and while I really should console myself with the fact that I did it once and therefore have no reason to do so again it just doesn't work. Sheer bloodymindedness means that I keep going back and trying it again and again and again.
So far this year I have spent two sessions on it - the first was with Northern Dave and Brokeback Beagle where both just displayed how tall they were by reaching past the "rubbish" sloper and to the good break above - bastards! I had a few goes but because the problem sits in the sun (or because it is my nemesis and is therefore fucking with my head) the "rubbish" sloper feels just that - rubbish. Hit it and then grease off - repeat till everyone else gets bored and drags me off to try Conan the Librarian instead.
Went back again on Saturday with the plan being to warm up at Owler Tor and then head off down to Secret Garden to try First Bulge - a Font 6b that I was close to sending in a session the previous time but failed on due to a tweaky bicep and some rather interesting wrist separation issues. Somewhat predictably the plan went out of the window and a siege of Wafery Flake ensued instead as the conditions are feeling better and (so the theory goes at least) the problem is there for the sending. Conditions were better it has to be said - the sloper was only mildly rubbish and I was feeling pretty good on it but still couldn't get past the move off the sloper ending up inches then millimetres then microns short of the sinker pocket. Another day without the send and therefore another trip back to try it yet again. Next time I will pack the Whites - maybe a bit of mid-sole stiffness will make the difference or maybe it won't but it can't hurt.
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